Temples of Angkor

You cannot visit Cambodia and leave without seeing it. Many tourists actually make it their only stop in Cambodia on their tour of the region. The temples of Angkor, one of the most important archaeological sites of Southeast Asia and UNESCO Heritage Site since 1992, are the national pride and symbol of Cambodia. From the 9th to the 15th century, Angkor was the center of the Khmer empire which in times of its biggest glory comprised the territory of present Cambodia, parts of Laos, Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia and Myanmar. Angkor Archaeological Park contains the remains of the different capitals of the empire and encompasses area of more than 400km2. More than two millions of visitors come to Angkor each year and the number is increasing sharply, so if you go don't expect to be there alone.

We bought the 3-day ticket that can be used over a period of one week and explored the Angkor area both in tuk tuk and on a bike. We did the 'big circuit' on the bicycle and if you are even only moderately fit like us, you'll have no problem cycling around the whole complex. This was the part we enjoyed the most and since we did the circuit anticlockwise, we even managed to avoid the biggest crowds. The tuk tuk ride was much less fun although majority of the visitors seemed to prefer this mean of transport - there were hundreds of tuk tuks around the park and almost no bikes.

NOTE: For the tuk tuks and taxis business's sake, foreigners are not allowed to rent a motorbike in Siem Reap. That was a big bummer as some of the temples further out of the city would have been perfect for a scooter ride!

Cycling is fun...

...until a monkey tries to steal your bike

We will not bore you with the thorough description of all the temples, but these were our favorites:

BENG MEALEA - temple located 80 km outside Siem Reap and not included in the entrance pass. It was the first temple we saw and the one we liked the most in the end. Overgrown with trees and largely unrestored, it has a very wild feel to it. You can either walk on the wooden paths or explore the ruins from up close (at your own risk), climbing around and feeling like Indiana Jones or Lara Croft (or so I've been told since I've never seen either). Big plus is there are far less tourists than at its more famous counterpart inside Angkor, Ta Prohm.

PREAH KHAN - close to the fortified ancient town of Angkor Thom, this temple is also overrun by vegetation, it has a lot of shade and less people.

BAYON - one of the 'big' temples, not in size but in importance and the number of visitors it receives. We went there around lunch time and it didn't feel too crowded. The centerpiece of Angkor Thom city, it is famous for its omnipresent giant stone faces representing Avalokiteshvara, the embodiment of compassion in Buddhism. The faces need some serious cleaning but even with the white spots all around they are very photogenic.

ANGKOR WAT - so this is the reason everybody comes to Angkor. Supposedly the largest religious monument in the world, and the most photographed site in SE Asia, it is hugely popular and every tour passes through here eventually. We admit, this is not our favorite temple, at all. We expected to have a wow moment when we were entering the west gate, but .... no. The only wow was about the quantity of people inside the temple complex. We went there three times during our stay and every time it was packed. It is beautiful (although under reconstruction so partially covered with green canvas), especially the bas reliefs and the temple reflection in the pools below, and it is large, but still a little overrated. If you like to wonder around with thousands of others, then this is the place for you. If not, there are other less visited temples to explore without the hords of Chinese and Japanese tour groups getting in your way.

Angkor Wat: day...

... and night

Smaller temples do not necessarily mean less fun.

Empty Pre Rup

More trees at Ta Som

Get in shape at Ta Keo

Meet Gene Kelly at Thommanon temple

And in case you didn't believe us, there really are too many people:

Crowds at Bayon

Follow the Japanese!

Wanted an intimate sunrise at Angkor Wat?

Oh ha ha...

We heard that just fifteen years ago one could move around without seeing another soul, but these times are long gone and Angkor is not a hidden treasure anymore. New Year's is most likely the worst time to visit so if you can, come outside the peak season. That said, we very much recommend to visit Angkor, it is by far the most beautiful place we have seen in Southeast Asia and will be hard to beat (maybe by some nice tropical island?). Get up early, get on your bike and the experience -despite the people- will be unforgettable.