With Christmas being over, it was time for a change ... and for a new country! We arranged the transport from the islands all the way to the Cambodian town of Ban Lung in the northeastern province of Rattanakiri. Although it included a boat, big bus and a minivan, the trip was surprisingly uneventful - maybe our horror bus stories are over! Even crossing the border was quite easy, although the 'fees' that both Lao and Cambodian authorities charge for letting you cross are criminal. Not to mention the so-called medical examination, where the Cambodian official checks your temperature, of course for another fee. I wonder how much they make you pay if you happen to have a fever...
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| Saying good-bye to Laos. Our temperature: 35.9 |
We and Ban Lung didn't start off very well when we spent three hours in the afternoon heat, with backpacks weighing a ton, walking around looking for a decent guesthouse, but in the end we didn't even want to leave. We rented a motorbike and explored the surroundings (Ban Lung itself is ugly as anything), taking in some waterfalls and rubber tree plantations. The nickname of Ban Lung is said to be 'red earth' and the guidebooks certainly didn't lie about how dusty it is. We ended up covered from head to toe!
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| Eat my dust! |
The real reason why we wanted to stay longer was - the lake. It didn't sound like much to us either but when we arrived to Yeak Lom, it was simply perfect.
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| Peace |
Calm, large crater lake surrounded by the tropical forest (or of what is left of it), it is considered sacred by the Cambodians. Most of them would not swim in it because they are afraid of the evil spirits residing in its center. But it didn't put us off! The first afternoon I wanted to be respectful and went for a swim fully clothed as women do in Southeast Asia.
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| Ready to join the Miss Wet T-shirt contest |
But when I realized I was the only foreigner dressed up and all the French and German tourists were jumping in in their bikinis, the next day I dropped the shell too and for the first time on our trip I used my bikini. How did the lake spirits punish me for my vulgarity? Sunburns all over with some nasty looking blisters.
Originally we had planned to do trekking in the area or visit the animist cemeteries in some of the villages further out. But we ended hanging out by the lake the rest of the time, reading, swimming and sleeping. It felt like real holidays!




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