Taking a break at Crusoe Island

Our next destination would be the small island of Koh Ta Kiev, a little paradise of relax and beach life. The trip from Kampot was so fast that we were able to catch a boat on the same day, without having to spend a night in the touristy and unappealing city of Sihanoukville. After getting off the bus we took a tuktuk and went straight to Otres beach, looking for the white-roofed boat of "Crusoe Island" camping. Luckily we were able to get a passage to the island even without a reservation.

On our way to the island

Arriving to the island you can hardly see the camping tents and bungalows, well hidden among the vegetation. The only clear signs of a camping are a couple of hammocks and swings hanging over the water. Once there we were greeted by Talu and Jake, the staff in charge, who explained us how the camping works and sent us out to pick our favorite spot where to put the tent. It didn't take us long. We found a tent right on the beach, surrounded by trees and with two hammocks. With high tide the water would rise almost to the tent, and we would wake up every morning on our own personal tiny beach.

The view from our "room"

The camping is one of only three resorts on the island, and luckily it was practically empty the day we arrived: just eleven people including the two of us. More than a normal camping it felt like being at a friend's place. The staff is easy-going and friendly, the service informal and the overall atmosphere cozy and relaxed. Being an undeveloped island you can't expect too much in terms of infrastructure. No wifi and barely any cellphone signal. The electricity works only from 6pm to 9pm and it is mainly used around the bar. The only toilet must be flushed by pouring in it water taken from a big bucket on the side. Same deal with the shower: pick up the (not exactly crystal clear) water from the well and pour it over your head. Fun and adventurous, but perhaps a bit too "basic" if you are not ready for it. The common area around the bar is filled with hammocks, swings and home-made benches. We loved it!

Part of the beach

The camping's boat

Stick insect on Talu's arm

Our plans for these days were pretty clear: disconnect and relax. We managed to do it pretty well. Apart from a couple of walks along the beach, we spent most of our time at the camping, reading a book on one of our favorite hammocks, or in the water, snorkeling around the reef. After sunset everyone would sit around the bar, waiting for the delicious dinner to come. The conversation with the owner Liam, the staff and the other guests was usually rather interesting and would last until the lights and the music were turned off. The advantage of going to bed early is that you get up early as well (even more so when you can barely sleep at night). Swimming in the sea at sunrise and snorkeling at the first light of the day is just amazing.

Unfortunately the future is not bright for the island. A Chinese company has bought it and is starting to build a casino, a big resort and a four lanes road. If you have a chance go there now, because things will change fast in the next few years.

In spite of enjoying the place so much we decided to leave after just three days. Even heaven can lose some of its charm when you are sleep-deprived, sticky from the sea air and always covered with sand. A proper clear water shower is probably the main thing missing in the wonderful Crusoe Island camping - K's hair looked like something the cat dragged in. Furthermore we are really looking forward to get to Thailand's famous islands and beaches, and can't wait to get there. So once again we skipped Sihanoukville, jumped on the first bus to Koh Kong and moved closer to the Thai border.